There we met Victor, a principled homeless man (one of two in town) who said we could share the area down below. We cooked a large meal with beans and quinoa and veggies. In the morning we saddled up against the elements, feeling that this time, yes this time, we would triumph over the continuous rain.
After two hours in the cold and rain the wind suddenly increased from the side as we entered the heart of the storm, soaking us to the bone in seconds. We ran for shelter through the thick mud to a utility building where we assessed our options.
“Effing weather! This is ridiculous!”
“Yeah...so rain gear....doesn't really work, at all, after 2 hours. Never again, let's never do this ever again”
“Tragic. Really really tragic. I agree. Let's stop at the first cafe' we can find for coffee, and maybe a laundry mat.”
Aguila, AZ. We warmed up in the cafe' and checked the weather. “Showers Likely” more “Cold.” While I was changing into warm clothes two locals originally from Massachusetts befriended Collin and offered us a place to dry our clothes. Pamela and Ada lived nearby and we visited with them while our clothes and shoes dried out. We ended up staying the night and being entertained by Ada's sassy attitude. Ada, an accomplished knitter, gave me her slipper pattern and Collin and I were each gifted a pair.
The following day we would spend a good hour riding side-by-side to Quartzite, AZ discussing who should be the owner of the coveted lavender slippers. Thankfully, we were able to reach a resolution and I now find myself looking back with laughter and amusement that the incident was our most argued debate on the trip. Quartzite, AZ, the self claimed Rock capitol of the world!
We spent a couple hours here in the morning, both of our knees were experiencing some discomforting pain so we puttered about the rock and trinket stalls where we left with an assortment of silly things, and of course, more rocks for my collection. It was here that I picked up my Ammonite necklace. Slowly, and against the headwind we made for the California border just before Blythe, CA. Success!
It was dark when we reach Palo Verdo, a very VERY small town consisting of a grocery mart, gas station and RV park. In this rural community, sleeping spot were few and far between. Tired and anxious we inquired at the mart and were fortunately directed to the RV park area which was open to bikers (despite appearances).
Yay! We stayed on the river and contemplated the surprising, but amazing ability to find sleeping quarters no matter where you're traveling. Two people in that town tried to talk me out of my Arizona license plate I'd found on the road. To no avail though, the plate is mine!Outside of Palo Verde we rode up and down short steep inclines in, you guessed it, another 30 mph headwind.
40 miles later we sat just outside the California sand dunes which run along the fault line in Imperial Valley and gigantic gold mine. Spirits were frazzled as we contemplated the best way to cover our bodies against the sand gusts.
“I'm not having any fun.”
“Yeah, me neither. This is terrible.”
“This trip is about fun too. How about we hitchhike? We haven't done that yet.”
“Okay, but only if we wear our sweet shades.”
Several minutes later...
“Do we look crazy?”
“Mm....definitely. This could take awhile, also there's nothing out here except dune buggies and miners.”
“Well...let's try for a bit and then ride another 7ish miles and find a place to make camp.”
30 minutes late John rolled past us and hit the brakes. “I think....he's stopping!” -Ash “Don't just stand there! Hurry up! He might not stay if we don't roll up right now!” -Collin
Frantic bike pushing ensues.
John was from El Centro, CA, southwest of us, and where we were to pass through the following day. (Yay!) John hooked us up with some trail mix, water, and told us about the area, rural farms, the mine, the sand faults, and dairies. We were invited to have dinner with him and his wife Michelle, which we enjoyed at a tasty Mexican restaurant in town. Ron, the Pastor of the Methodist church in town had invited us to set up our tent in his back yard. We met up with him and his wife Sarah and learned about the progressive social justice aspects of the methodist church there, and were entertained by their two cats.
The following day we would enter the mountains before San Diego.
It look a long time to get to the base of the mountain. Steadily uphill, we toiled along reach the base around 4pm. It was another 10 miles to the top. We went for it, passing giant boulders three times Collin's height and enjoying the 8% grade up into the hills.
We ran out of daylight just at the top. It's a little awkward asking a border patrol vehicle if you can pitch a tent on a mountain a half mile from the border, but what else was there to do??? We were instructed to pitch our tent and not move for the night.
One of the worst nights of sleep ever.
We were nearly run over by a trailer absentmindedly turning around; and were continually circled by the border car.
Gross.
The following day's ride along the border and up and down the mountain was beautiful and enjoyable. There were some fascinating sediment lines on rocks and some creepy small stature manikins which we decided against photographing.
DOWNHILL.....amazing downhills into Alpine, CA where we crashed, exhausted outside an elementary school.
We were tired, but determined to reach the Pacific Ocean, some 50 miles from Alpine in San Diego. Along the way we met Nate, a med student from a cycling family who invited us to stay at his house!
It took ages to cross the 'burbs into San Diego...but we passed through the beautiful mission trails....
and after some confusing riding on trails, reach the boardwalk and viola! The Pacific! I ate two giant tacos, the best tacos I'd ever had.
We watched the sunset. At Nate's we ate dinner with his family who were passing through town on their way to Mexico to building houses with their church group. Nate discussed with us the trails and tribulations of medical school and we shared tips and stories from the road. His Dad was an eccentric bike builder, and his whole family was going across the country on bikes to try out all of the different models. In the morning he pulled out his stitching kit and fixed our safety flag which had been flag-less since we reach California!
The ride up to Los Angeles was amazing. For myself, nothing tops New Mexico, but Collin and I definitely agreed that Southern California was fantastically beautiful and full of cyclists, interesting and busy scenery and of course, the pacific. We stayed on an ocean cliff edge one night...
>
and the following night we experienced an insanely stressful night trying to find a suitable church to sleep in and finally settling in at a public park. 4 Taco Bell burritos helped to ease our frustration.
More and more beach riding!
In Santa Monica we stayed with Monica! An amazing fantastic friend of Collin's who took us to Malibu beach the following morning, and Ryan, who took us to Dume Park Beach for surfing and more sun relaxing time.
It was strange to think that we only had one day left.
17 miles into downtown LA, and then...done. What an amazing experience. We clumsily packed our gear into boxes at the train station after admiring the Morphosis Caltrans building...experiencing some shock and awe as we weighed our bikes and gear. So much gear. 115 lbs for myself, and 135 lbs for Collin, and we were low on food!
My friend Rachel housed us in Mt Washington in LA and we had dinner with her Dad Herb, and an El Salvadorian place a couple blocks from their house.
If you've never had a Pupusa before, go have one. Now please. We met Rachel's Mom Suzanne, had a glass of wine, and had a good night's rest.
The train ride...
My birthmom Brenda, and Morey her husband joined us on the train from Klamath Falls to Eugene, we were a bit haggard after 20+ hours on the train, but excited to be home. Morey made us sack lunches.
Across from the Steel Bridge in Portland the train got delayed for 40 minutes. This may have been the most frustrating moment of the entire trip. Domenika and Diana greeted us when we arrived at the train station and we both took a deep breath and said hello to Portland.
Drinks and merriment were had with our friends at our old stand by, the Bye and Bye and Kim and Brian made us a finish line banner to run through!
Now, weeks later, I'm moved into a new home, settled, catching up, working at the shops, adjusting to life with all sort of wonderful memories and moments in my heart.
I miss the days of riding, the endless hours outside. I don't miss the cold, and the storms, but I love the knowledge I gain from it. We had our fundraiser at Hopworks Brewery on the 5th and brought in around 60+ people and raised $320 for our organizations. A couple more donations are coming in and the total amount raised will be around $2,000. It's not a dollar for every mile, but we tried our best and rode our best.
3500 miles later, I feel complete.
www.moneyformilescampaign.info
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