Upon leaving
Arizona, we experienced what could be called
'rider fatigue' i.e. we wanted to be done riding, and had 550 miles to go! It took half the day to exit the 'burbs of Phoenix, but we had a nice ride in to Wickenburg, AZ. There, a storm grew and the skies darkened and we dove for cover under a bridge after a confusing conversation across a round-a-bout circle.
There we met Victor, a principled homeless man (one of two in town) who said we could share the area down below. We cooked a large meal with beans and quinoa and veggies. In the morning we saddled up against the elements, feeling that this time, yes this time, we would triumph over the continuous rain.
After two hours in the cold and rain the wind suddenly increased from the side as we entered the heart of the storm, soaking us to the bone in seconds. We ran for shelter through the thick mud to a utility building where we assessed our options.
“Effing weather! This is ridiculous!”“Yeah...so rain gear....doesn't really work, at all, after 2 hours. Never again, let's never do this ever again”“Tragic. Really really tragic. I agree. Let's stop at the first cafe' we can find for coffee, and maybe a laundry mat.”Aguila, AZ. We warmed up in the cafe' and checked the weather. “Showers Likely” more “Cold.” While I was changing into warm clothes two locals originally from Massachusetts befriended Collin and offered us a place to dry our clothes. Pamela and Ada lived nearby and we visited with them while our clothes and shoes dried out. We ended up staying the night and being entertained by Ada's sassy attitude. Ada, an accomplished knitter, gave me her slipper pattern and Collin and I were each gifted a pair.
The following day we would spend a good hour riding side-by-side to Quartzite, AZ
discussing who should be the owner of the coveted lavender slippers. Thankfully, we were able to reach a resolution and I now find myself looking back with laughter and amusement that the incident was our most argued debate on the trip.
Quartzite, AZ, the self claimed Rock capitol of the world!
We spent a couple hours here in the morning, both of our knees were experiencing some discomforting pain so we puttered about the rock and trinket stalls where we left with an assortment of silly things, and of course, more rocks for my collection. It was here that I picked up my Ammonite necklace. Slowly, and against the headwind we made for the
California border just before Blythe, CA. Success!
It was dark when we reach Palo Verdo, a very VERY small town consisting of a grocery mart, gas station and RV park. In this rural community, sleeping spot were few and far between. Tired and anxious we inquired at the mart and were fortunately directed to the RV park area which was open to bikers (despite appearances).
Yay! We stayed on the river and contemplated the surprising, but amazing ability to find sleeping quarters no matter where you're traveling. Two people in that town tried to talk me out of my Arizona license plate I'd found on the road. To no avail though, the plate is mine!
Outside of
Palo Verde we rode up and down short steep inclines in, you guessed it, another 30 mph headwind.
40 miles later we sat just outside the California sand dunes which run along the fault line in Imperial Valley and gigantic gold mine. Spirits were frazzled as we contemplated the best way to cover our bodies against the sand gusts.
“I'm not having any fun.”
“Yeah, me neither. This is terrible.”
“This trip is about fun too. How about we hitchhike? We haven't done that yet.”
“Okay, but only if we wear our sweet shades.”Several minutes later...
“Do we look crazy?”
“Mm....definitely. This could take awhile, also there's nothing out here except dune buggies and miners.”
“Well...let's try for a bit and then ride another 7ish miles and find a place to make camp.”
30 minutes late John rolled past us and hit the brakes. “I think....he's stopping!” -Ash “Don't just stand there! Hurry up! He might not stay if we don't roll up right now!” -Collin Frantic bike pushing ensues.
John was from
El Centro, CA, southwest of us, and where we were to pass through the following day. (Yay!) John hooked us up with some trail mix, water, and told us about the area, rural farms, the mine, the sand faults, and dairies. We were invited to have dinner with him and his wife Michelle, which we enjoyed at a tasty Mexican restaurant in town. Ron, the Pastor of the Methodist church in town had invited us to set up our tent in his back yard. We met up with him and his wife Sarah and learned about the progressive social justice aspects of the methodist church there, and were entertained by their two cats.
The following day we would enter the mountains before San Diego.
It look a long time to get to the base of the mountain. Steadily uphill, we toiled along reach the base around 4pm.
It was another 10 miles to the top. We went for it, passing giant boulders three times Collin's height and enjoying the
8% grade up into the hills.
We ran out of daylight just at the top.
It's a little awkward asking a border patrol vehicle if you can pitch a tent on a mountain a half mile from the border, but what else was there to do??? We were instructed to pitch our tent and not move for the night. 
One of the worst nights of sleep ever.
We were nearly run over by a trailer absentmindedly turning around; and were continually circled by the border car.
Gross.The following day's ride along the border and up and down the mountain was beautiful and enjoyable. There were some fascinating
sediment lines on rocks and some creepy small stature manikins which we decided against photographing.
DOWNHILL.....amazing downhills into
Alpine, CA where we crashed, exhausted outside an elementary school.
We were tired, but determined to reach the
Pacific Ocean, some 50 miles from Alpine in San Diego. Along the way we met Nate, a med student from a cycling family who invited us to stay at his house!
It took ages to cross the 'burbs into San Diego...but we passed through the beautiful
mission trails....
and after some confusing riding on trails, reach the boardwalk and viola! The Pacific! I ate two giant tacos, the best tacos I'd ever had.
We watched the sunset. At
Nate's we ate dinner with his family who were passing through town on their way to Mexico to building houses with their church group. Nate discussed with us the trails and tribulations of medical school and we shared tips and stories from the road. His Dad was an eccentric bike builder, and his whole family was going across the country on bikes to try out all of the different models. In the
morning he pulled out his stitching kit and fixed our safety flag which had been flag-less since we reach California!
The ride up to
Los Angeles was amazing. For myself, nothing tops New Mexico, but Collin and I definitely agreed that Southern California was fantastically beautiful and full of cyclists, interesting and busy scenery and of course, the pacific. We stayed on an ocean cliff edge one night...
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and the following night we experienced an insanely stressful night trying to find a suitable church to sleep in and finally settling in at a public park.
4 Taco Bell burritos helped to ease our frustration. More and more beach riding!
In
Santa Monica we stayed with
Monica! An amazing fantastic friend of Collin's who took us to Malibu beach the following morning, and
Ryan, who took us to Dume Park Beach for surfing and more sun relaxing time.
It was strange to think that we only had one day left.17 miles into downtown LA, and then...done. What an amazing experience. We clumsily packed our gear into boxes at the train station after admiring the Morphosis Caltrans building...experiencing some shock and awe as we weighed our bikes and gear.
So much gear. 115 lbs for myself, and 135 lbs for Collin, and we were low on food!
My friend
Rachel housed us in Mt Washington in LA and we had dinner with her Dad Herb, and an El Salvadorian place a couple blocks from their house.
If you've never had a Pupusa before, go have one. Now please. We met Rachel's Mom Suzanne, had a glass of wine, and had a good night's rest.
The train ride...
My
birthmom Brenda, and Morey her husband joined us on the train from Klamath Falls to Eugene, we were a bit haggard after 20+ hours on the train, but excited to be home.
Morey made us sack lunches.Across from the Steel Bridge in Portland the
train got delayed for 40 minutes. This may have been the most frustrating moment of the entire trip. Domenika and Diana greeted us when we arrived at the train station and we both took a deep breath and said hello to Portland.
Drinks and merriment were had with our friends at our old stand by, the Bye and Bye and Kim and Brian made us a finish line banner to run through!
Now, weeks later, I'm moved into a new home, settled, catching up, working at the shops, adjusting to life with all sort of wonderful memories and moments in my heart.
I miss the days of riding, the endless hours outside. I don't miss the cold, and the storms, but I love the knowledge I gain from it. We had our fundraiser at
Hopworks Brewery on the 5th and brought in around 60+ people and raised $320 for our organizations.
A couple more donations are coming in and the total amount raised will be around $2,000. It's not a dollar for every mile, but we tried our best and rode our best.
3500 miles later, I feel complete.
www.moneyformilescampaign.info
The home stretch...
We arrived in
Phoenix on March 4th in mid afternoon after staying at a Methodist church outside Apache Junction. The Junction, at the edge of the suburbs, was still 55 miles from Arne’s house in North Phoenix by Shaw Bluff! We were excited to see bikeways everywhere leading into the city, canal trails, and a aside from a few honks (and okay…a car that ran a red light and skidded to a stop at the edge of our front tires) we made it unscathed.
We made a necessary stop at
Trader Joe’s and Arne met us there and rode the rest of the way to his house. Ahh…
relaxation! It was decided that 12 days of riding was enough, and a rest day was in order. Conversation was had, stories told, and much lounging in the sun, hammock, and hot tub was had. (in addition to lots of tasty quesadillas, something Arne had been missing since leaving for Spain) Arne also has an
amazing rope swing which I will miss dearly!
We headed out to downtown at the end of the day and went straight to the library. Wow…truly unique, beautiful, and probably my favorite this far (maybe more so than the Seattle library!)
Afterwards we set out to the arts district to find some interesting niches, and stumbled upon what looked identical to Alberta st’s Last Thursday! It was First Friday in Phoenix and Roosevelt St was closed, and filled with artists, galleries, food stands, live music, free hugs. It was both elating, and moving, and made me want to be back in Portland.
Afterwards we enjoyed a nice night ride back to Arne’s, more quesadillas, and a good night’s rest. Today we head for California.
Arizona plantlife…Arizona is the greenest it’s been in years! There had been incredible droughts, and nearly all the time it’s brown and tan.
All the rain (and
snow) has brought the wild flowers out.
The cacti are full and happy, and the grasses are swaying happily in the breeze.
We traveled through a mountain pass to cross into Arizona
and were shocked when we woke up, still 6 miles from the top, to the tent caving in under the weight of snow! After some deliberation such as…
Will we be stuck up here?
Should we wait it out until it stops?
Maybe there’s a plow on Monday…
Oh boy….that would be a lot of time in the tent.
Frick. I hate snow.
Oh but it’s so pretty!
We could die out here…(okay not really)
It’s going to ice over.
I think it’s melting…okay let’s go!
As we traveled up, the snow on the road increased and we were in a complete white out! It was amazing, and challenging, Collin’s tires were slipping, I was riding the brakes on the downhill, hoping not to slip off. We made it down, and there at the bottom was a rancher, Erik, who had seen us on the mountain and was headed back up in his truck to find us. We ended up going to his ranch in a
beautiful canyon.
We warmed up by the fire, drank hot chocolate and tequila, ate bowls of hot homemade soup, and learned about ranch life, building straw bale houses, solar power, Arizona frost, foreign policy and other interesting tidbits from the family.
Joe gave us a lift back up the road in the morning (the drive way was 1.5 miles of thick mud!) and were back on the road and witnessing Arizona’s crazy terrain, mining towns, and crazy drivers. Steep inclines, and
fast descents pushing 35 mph…
New Mexico was my favorite place to ride thus far. It really and truly captured my heart and I would like to move there at some point, it’s now part of the 10 year Smashley plan. Our first night coming in from El Paso, TX was spent in
Mesilla, NM a small town community south of Las Cruces. We met
“Wild” Bill Towers, John, and Scotty outside of gas station and quickly got to talking.
It was decided that we’d camp in his backyard, with loads of wild growing mustard greens, and a large garden. His adobe house was in the midst of repairs, and dated back to the 1850’s. We talked about the up and downs of life, the shitty times, the lost times, the finding your way times. In the morning we visited the town square, and ate the tastiest cheddar chili scones we’d ever tasted.
Flat tires…Collin had had 5 flat tires our first day in NM. It was decided we’d procure some ‘thorn resistant’ tires which could withstand the numerous goat heads. (plus according to
Collin’s ‘philosophy’ the other person was to own a beer for the net difference in flat tires. He’d had 29 at this point, and I 5, which meant I owed him a 24 pack…interesting no??? I fail to see how this is fair at all!) I also procured a new helmet after an incident involving a slide at the park and some bad decision making on my part…anyway. We traveled on.
Passing the Rio Grande several times (where I
collected many rocks), rolling hills, desert, beautiful.
We passed giant cottonwood trees with bright
chartreuse mistletoe, which I would later learn is an invasive species, and you’d better cut it out of the tree (by limb) or else suffer the trees
disastrous fate.
It seems comical that the misteltoed cottonwoods were the subjects of so many desert photos displaying NM’s beauty!
After
Caballo Lake we started heading up towards the mountains. After a hard ride we stopped in
Hillsboro, NM and ate at the only open café, the General Store. We met a collection of locals, including Embry, born and raised in Hillsboro, a photographer of pictographs, and teller of stories about traveling through Israel. There we also met Brian and Bob who both had owned bike shops I California. Bob invited us to stay at his house in Kingston, another 9 miles up, and encouraged us to do the
8,100 ft climb to Emory Pass in the morning. After a giant bowl of green chili con carne, we decided to stay. The ride up was remarkably breathtaking, and Bob’s house a pleasant treat.
A large back yard along a creek, a iron work cow named Freewheel, one of who’s eyes I noted was a
Suntour Winner freewheel.
We set up camp and then were treated to a tasty dinner with salmon and chicken, salad, wine…oh my! We met Mark, their friend, who introduced us to the album,
‘The Traveling Wilburys’ created at Roy Orbison’s house, with Tom Petty, George Harrison, Bob Dylan and Jeff Lynne- and a bootleg copy of the home movies of its creation. We talked bikes, rocks, local shenanigans. Bob sent me rolling on with a square tapered nail, a rock, and a broken axel (French threaded he thinks) in need of a replacement. It will make for a fun search back in Portland!
Emory Pass...
Was no small feet…but it was incredible. And peculiar to be sweating up it in shorts and a t-shirt with snow piling up on all sides! We climbed and climbed and reached the top! The descents came in waves, some a bit hard to enjoy in the cold, but fun nonetheless. We traveled on giddy, and a bit out of sorts. Up and down, in and out of the mountains we went. In Hatch, NM (the Chili Capital of the World) we bought some green and red chilis.
In Silver City we ran into Bernie,
a season traveler, who we heard would be traveling through back in Louisiana, from our random encounter with Hilary who introduced us to Hog Cracklin’. We were not expecting to see him roll up at a Wal-mart two states over!
Texas...
East Texas was amazing! The
San Houston National Forest lends itself to rolling hills and tall pines. We met four people on horse back, which I’m sure most of you have heard by now, treated us to cold beers from their saddle bags, and
jello shots. We stayed at several Baptist churches, notably one in Silsbee with soulful gospel singing to fall asleep to, an outdoor and kind-of creepy church outside Cold Spring, and on Valentine’s day, a Baptist church in Burton, TX where we went to the service and then out to Dairy Queen with the whole congregation! We made it to Austin,
exhausted after 25 days in the saddle.
We were greeted by wonderful care packages! Thank you soooo much!!! (you know who you are!) and Mike, Collin’s friend who introduced us to Michelada, a spicy beer beverage.
El Paso...I left the following day for
Bulverde to see my Birthdad, Diane, and my brother and sisters. It was my longest day of riding, just shy of 85 miles through Texas Hill County, beautiful, and my most favorite stretch being on
Purgatory Rd, which runs alongside Canyon Lake. Collin rode down a couple days later and we traveled to El Paso, TX the next day, passing numerous wind power generators,
and watching the terrain change to desert as we flew by. We stayed the night in El Paso and Dave took us to an Indian Casino (I’ve never been to a casino) and introduced us to the penny and nickel slots (Dave gave us some ‘fun‘ money), and buffet dinner. I can’t say I’m a fan of casinos, I much prefer arcade games where I’m guaranteed happiness and joy as opposed to losing money! We rode one the next morning passing through amazing highway intersections,
old cemeteries underneath them, and watching Mexico's flag billow in the wind in Juarez.
The border is a strange place. I can’t wrap my brain around the large fence, the vehicles, the
coyote runners, border patrol. It’s the same land, but you cannot enter here, and you’d better know what you’re doing if you head there. It felt wrong, and I longed for a day of difference.
And now...the best thing I've found for $2 that I love unconditionally...
-Smash
The following day we would spend a good hour riding side-by-side to Quartzite, AZ discussing who should be the owner of the coveted lavender slippers. Thankfully, we were able to reach a resolution and I now find myself looking back with laughter and amusement that the incident was our most argued debate on the trip. 
Yay! We stayed on the river and contemplated the surprising, but amazing ability to find sleeping quarters no matter where you're traveling. Two people in that town tried to talk me out of my Arizona license plate I'd found on the road. To no avail though, the plate is mine!
We ran out of daylight just at the top. 
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